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Lightweight Bridge

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  • Craig BumgarnerCraig Bumgarner Drayden, MarylandVirtuoso Bumgarner S/N 001
    Posts: 795
    Humm..... My Dremel MultiPro 395 cuts easily, no sense that it is under powered regardless of the wood being cut. I'd be looking at the bits carefully, be sure they seem suitable for cutting wood and are sharp. These bits lose their edge quickly if used for anything other than wood.

    I use the Dremel 9906 Tungsten and 117 High Speed bits. I don't have any of the following but it looks like the 114, 121, 124, 125 & 144would work pretty good too. I use mostly the 117 for most of the hollowing, goes very quickly, take about 1-2 minutes. I use the smaller 9906 to finesse tight spots and go in deep.

    HERE is the Dremel Bit page
  • scotscot Virtuoso
    Posts: 698
    The wood is ebony and it did shave right off - not gummy at all. To cut the slots I used an end mill with wider flutes than the average dremel cutter, with the mill at a slow speed to reduce chipping. You can't see it in the little photo, but the feet are hollowed out to about 1/4 inch deep. For some reason I just can't post a photo anymore. For the feet I used a long pointed cutter at high speed and took very shallow cuts until I had what I wanted. I'm going to start the next one on sunday and hopefully by the time I finish it I'll have the photo posting problem figured out. I'm planning to remove a lot more mass and use a lighter wood, it'll take some time to carve it all.
  • scotscot Virtuoso
    Posts: 698
    OK, it took the photo after all, even though it said no file was added...
  • Buy a Foredom..??? Industrial version with variable speed foot control and a big fat powerhead connected by a fairly stiffish flexidrive. Oily tropical hardwoods can be really hard on a cutting burr as well.

    Are you using good quality Made in USA or Germany carbide burrs? Many of the Asian ones are not particularly sharp coming from the factory.
    The Magic really starts to happen when you can play it with your eyes closed
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