BYO (Build Your Own): I used lamination for back and sides for the first time. I used Titebond glue. They came out good, but they felt damp for a week afterward and are trying to warp out on me. I've got them clamped up in the molds to keep them stable. Not too worried about them, but got to thinking if Titebond is really the right glue to use.
Michael Collins recommends Titebond in his book. I found with what I thought was about the right amount of glue, it starts to set faster than I can get the sides in particular clamped up. I think I just made it on the sides. I used more glue on the back for that reason, but in hindsight this was a mistake as the back was very slow to setup, too much glue. Michael says too much is better than not enough, but I think too much is just as bad as not enough. BTW, I used a thin foam roller (WEST epoxy brand) to apply which does a nice job of evenly distributing the glue.
I'm wondering if a plastic resin (urea formaldehyde) glue like Weldwood or Resorcinal or maybe liquid hide glue would be better. Would it set up faster and harder? I've used epoxy a lot for other things, maybe that would be good though I hate the mess of working with it. I feel like waterbased Titebond is kind of rubbery and certainly sends the veneers into gyrations that take at least a week to recover from. I question whether the Titebond might effect the resonance of the back and sides in a detrimental way. The tap tones on the back and sides were terrible shortly after laminating and only marginally better now. A harder glue seems more appropriate for this aspect of building
Thoughts? What have others used? I wonder what the Selmer factory might have used? What would they have had available? Hide glue seems like it would set too fast. Maybe they molds were easier and quicker to use than my rig which takes 20 individual clamps. Urea glues were probably available, at least after WWII. Hmmmm.........old secrets.